The award of “Best New Restaurant” holds a lot of prestige in an up-and-coming food scene like Denver’s. As an unclaimed culinary battleground, old and new restaurants are fighting to have their name be the one most recognized by visitors and locals alike.
American Elm, located in the Highlands neighborhood, does not put its diners right in the heat of the Union Station or Rockies’ Stadium lights. Instead it offers them a wide outdoor space to enjoy an upscale grill out with friends and family.
The twinkling string lights are dimmed because the sun is still high and mighty for dinner. The intermingling of trees and plants create a casual and summer-y atmosphere. Instead, the feeling of high-quality ingredients and culinary expertise rests in the innovative dishes and bursting flavors of the fresh provisions. Chef Brent Turnipseede makes sure that local influences are expressed by beloved combinations that tie his menu back to Colorado. His last name is an ode to the Earth in the same manner as the dishes on the menu.
The menu can be interpreted as a casual happy hour filled with snacks, and it spells out a night of shared small plates or a four-course tour of reinvented comfort classics.
Begin with the fruit of a Colorado summer, which is a palisade peach. Its sweetness and color resonates with the golden hue of honey. A dessert would definitely accentuate its subtle notes, but instead it is put at the forefront of the menu by accompanying pork belly as an appetizer.
Pork’s salty nature is often complemented by sweetness. The grilled peaches mellow out the saltiness and pair well with the char of the green salsa verde. The interplay between the herbaceous cilantro cuts through the richness of the pork and allows for balance which isn’t always found with this cut of meat. The crispy skin on top could easily be mistaken for the sugar atop a crème brûleé.
The ripe tomatoes act as a strong base for the pearly burrata’s soft insides. Cubes of toasted ciabatta contrast its usual chewy texture but the strong flavor remains. All of these components create a merger between a Panzanella and caprese.
Their entrées, much like the rest of their menu, range from land and sea offerings to appeal to all.
The steak has unmistakable grill marks that define July nights. Their medium rare boasts a lovely magenta color, but they amplify this backyard barbeque even more with bone marrow butter to give an extra nutty richness. As it melts and coats the steak, it can also act as a great dipping for the shoestring fries piled beside it.
Their version of shrimp and grits can be found in the seared scallops. The plate arrives with three golden, toasted medallions that could be mistaken for campfire marshmallows. Even with a crisp exterior, they cut like butter and maintain a soft texture.
Beneath them lies a corn soubise, emulating a creamier version of grits. This sauce resembles a simple béchamel but instead of being paired with a funky or sharp cheese, they impart a sweetness from a corn puree that brings a shrimp-and-grits feel to this innovative dish. Finally, to hone in on the southern draw, a sweet pea succotash brings in simple garden favorites.
The expertise at American Elm extends beyond their protein preparation. Their homemade bucatini arrives at the table intertwined with fresh herbs from the pesto it is accompanied by. This summer specialty gains inspiration from the earth with squash, mushrooms and pepitas acting as the leading roles for creating this dish. The typical pine nuts are replaced with the crunch and nuttiness of pepitas. A light pasta dish is welcomed in the warm summer months.
When sitting outside on the patio at American Elm, it sends a reminder that great flavors, authentic cooking and wholesome ingredients can arrive in a space as welcoming as a neighbor’s house. The atmosphere maintains high spirits, and the food ensures that they will continue to rise in the Denver food scene.
