The ultimate ode to Colorado can be found in a lovely little white restaurant located just outside downtown Denver’s bustling cityscape. Beast + Bottle eatery gives you the ability to breathe in Denver’s famous fresh air and take in the sun that reminds people why they decided to finally move out West. The bright white walls construct this small restaurant as a humble establishment compared to the outlandish purple one located right next door. It is not always the loud places that draw all the attention. It can often be the ones that are authentic, wholesome and well-cared for, which is exactly what is expected at Beast + Bottle.
This restaurant does not seat many, but will often seat to capacity because it has been creating dishes out of the fresh and delicious ingredients that Colorado provides. There is a short bar inside that will pleasantly seat anyone interested in conversing with the bartender and getting more insight about this cool place. The booths are spacious enough to seat a group of six, which is perfect for the sharing style of food being offered. Interestingly enough, the story of their love of the craft extends from the chefs to the hostess all the way to the restrooms, where the walks are coated in menus of restaurants that have influenced their dishes.
In this case, The Beast is not what is often associated with that title. It more so goes with beauty, because their protein of choice is lamb, and it gets the attention it deserves to create works of art in both presentation and flavor. An entire section of the menu is reserved for this one animal. While most restaurants will not even tackle lamb because of the difficulty, Beast + Bottle is determined to add innovation to every type of preparation. In addition, the extent of their dishes comes from their sustainable practice of not letting any bit of their produce go to waste.
The lamb meatballs are a contemporary take on an Italian dream dinner. Instead of having a mess of loose spaghetti noodles getting everywhere, it is replaced with a bright yellow polenta that can easily be swiped through one of the lamb meatballs. This quirky substitution gives a sweet corn complement to the game flavor of lamb. The dish is enhanced even more with the spice kick of Harissa, a blend of peppers from Middle Eastern cuisine. The colors of the dish also effectively convey the vibes of Colorado and allow it to be a great choice to share (or rightfully keep for one’s self).
The lamb sausage is another unexpected interpretation of the rack or chops that normally present themselves on menus. These take influences from Mexico with the profile of chorizo taking center stage. The cumin, ancho chili and touches of fennel give the sausage the bold flavor that chorizo deserves, yet the unique flavor of lamb still affirms that this is not the typical chorizo link. Beneath it lies a swoosh of a developed apple purée that is far smoother than the sauce from the poached. It also is decorated with concentrated roasted apple jam that adds a different flavor profile of apple to the dish. The meat needs this sweetness to cut through all the salt. The green sauce that speckles the plate also gives an herbaceous quality that everyone likes about fresh pico de gallo or chimichurri. It’s a truly well-balanced dish.
Another fresh option to begin the meal with is the roasted cauliflower head. This is definitely one head you want served in front of you on a platter. The small patches of white contrast with the dark roasted florets and the greenery of the chimichurri sauce dripping down the sides. Instead of being powered by cilantro or parsley that is normally associated with chimichurri, this one highlights herbs and acidity with fennel and kumquat. The fennel plays well with the olive oil, and the kumquat brings out the oil’s fruitiness. Ultimately, it was not overwhelmingly sweet—instead, it offered slight heat from the Calabrian chili, a crunch from peanuts, freshness from the fennel and slight bitterness from the rehydrated kumquats. Beast + Bottle continues to bring old flavors into new lights.
When Beast + Bottle takes a break from lamb, they do a phenomenal job on their seafood as well. The cod is not always the star of the menu, because it is out-shadowed by the lovely orange hue of salmon and the versatile raw or cooked preparation of tuna. However, cod is often the featured fish of fish and chips, and Beast + Bottle takes note of this to execute a refined version of the British classic. Here, the cod forgoes the hefty beer batter and is replaced with a golden coating that shatters instantly upon the first bite. It does not distract from the fish’s ability to flake away from itself effortlessly—it is practically skin tight. The tartar sauce is ditched too and replaced with an earthy, deep mushroom purée that tastes like eating a mushroom freshly roasted with garlic. The chips appear to be unchanged with these golden fries scattered on the plate. However, biting into the sweetness of the added parsnip gives a new flavor profile to this once predictable dish. Similar to roasted carrots, parsnips become addicting once they are left in the oven for a while.
Beast + Bottle will become known for its ability to construct dishes that highlight each flavor profile in unison. The balance in their dishes is incomparable. They utilize inspiration from dishes that have come before them yet always make sure to add what was originally missing. This was well done in their duck course. It is the presentation that catches the eye first, because the reduction that lines the plate looks like whimsical lines of paint. Above that are jet black lentils that contrast the white plate they lay on. These lentils are nice and light and can complement the star duck gently placed on top. The challenge with duck is rendering the thick layer of fat on top, but Beast + Bottle tenderizes it to allow that fat cap to inject flavor into the meat below. At the same time, the duck is still able to form a crust on top that all meat needs. Duck pairs well with fruit, and instead of the French classic with orange, it is the tart cherry that livens up the entire dish. It provides acid with sweetness and cuts through the richness of the duck. As an added treat, there are pieces of “duck bacon” hidden among the dish that gives the bold flavor of duck in tiny bites.
While their menu rotates seasonally to highlight what their garden is growing at the time, their quality of dishes never changes—neither does the attention and care that goes into the composition of each dish and the beautiful way it is presented. They manage to be consistent while inconsistent at the same time, but they effectively pick and choose what time to be which characteristic.
People enjoy Colorado because of its versatility. In a matter of hours, the undisturbed serenity of the mountainside can be replaced by the excitement of a growing city. This cool juxtaposition is what allows Beast + Bottle to be so successful since they can balance all the different flavor profiles they showcase on their dishes. The dishes could never be one note, and they cater well to the diversity of perspectives in Colorado.
