In their song “Make it Sweet,” Old Dominion famously sang “Just trying to keep up with the Jones at the end of the block.” While they might not have been referring to Local Jones Eatery located inside the Halcyon Hotel in Cherry Creek, the lyrics fit this fresh spot quite nicely. They epitomize the farm-to-table Colorado mentality, sourcing ingredients well and cultivating a welcoming environment that others surely want to emulate.
Now that dining-in has returned, this gathering space can once again be enjoyed by patrons. The ambiance is akin to entering a lovely summer home. The space is furnished by green velvet armchairs, suede yellow coaches and sleek booths that wrap around the spacious restaurant.
Their potted plants and succulents sprouting from floor to ceiling make it feel like a trendy home oasis. Local Jones intertwines a modern aesthetic with a retro flair to make their dreams of being a neighborhood joint come to life.
Their hummus arrives with a magenta hue that almost feels like an homage to cherries. Instead of lending itself to sweetness, it has an earthy bitterness from beets that compliment the fruitiness of the olive oil. In order to pick up as much of this smooth dip as possible, there is crudite made in house triangles of pita ready for the job. Peeking through is the flavor of mint, the little pieces imbue the dish with added freshness and greenery.
A roast chicken might be a staple for household dinner, but their bird gets an upgrade from smears of lavender butter underneath the skin for nice basting. This layer of fat renders a finished product of succulent juicy meat.
Their burger appears right off the press with a cheese skirt. Keeping with the midwestern mentality when it comes to burger prep, they utilize caramelized roasted onions as opposed to the harsh, raw red onions. The crunch of a vinegary dill pickle completes the burger. While a simple blueprint creates a burger, it’s the thoughtfulness behind the ingredients and assembly that makes it more than just fast food.
Ribbons of pasta dough get dunked into boiling water until al dente is achieved in order to begin their pappardelle dish. These long waves grab onto their thick beef ragu and hold tight to the sweet ruby tomato sauce. As the tomatoes simmer away, it breaks down the toughness of the meat, leaving shreds intertwined with the noodles. Paired with the array of herbs, this Italian art form is ever-present on the plate.
Local Jones presents their steaks cut against the grain, so patrons see the contrast in the deep brown sear and vibrant pink center. The steak is accompanied by one of their house sauces in order to impart more flavor to an everyday dish. They combine the creaminess and tingle of heat in a typical horseradish sauce with the herbaceousness of tzatziki.
Alternatively, their salsa verde (similar to a chimichurri) has parsley and basil that do the heavy lifting while garlic and lemon juice notes come through as well.
No true get-together is complete without a sweet element. This is taken to heart at Local Jones as their menu boasts cinnabread pudding, chocolate pot de creme and sticky toffee cake to name a few. A spoonful of cinnabread pudding could be mistaken for a buttery cinnamon roll that was too good to wait. The pot de creme defines luxury, as the smooth custard grips onto the spoon.
While Local Jones could still be considered the new kids on the block, they have immediately made themselves at home in the neighborhood.
