Liquid nitrogen slowly begins to coat the table, like fog at a music show about to reveal the star waiting behind the curtains. No rock star will emerge, but an earthy flavor will arrive to enhance their dessert that tastes like root beer soda without a trace of a soda can in sight.
Chef Jacob Bickelhaupt does not need a tub of ice cream to remind people of sweet summer memories of root beer floats. This illustration of memories comes across in each of his dozen course tasting menus, which are as novel as his pop-up being located in a small apartment.
Pop-ups and elevated dining are associated with cities like New York and LA, but after achieving two Michelin stars in Chicago, Bickelhaupt created Konro to add some extra flavor to the Denver food scene.
Other tasting menus leave patrons wanting more but Bickelhaupt has too much fun with his food to stop at just five or six bite-sized dishes, which is why he can get upwards of 14 in one night. The progression of the meal goes from being one bite to a lengthier culinary experience.
“Sometimes, I’ll change the menu mid-service. I just get inspired and have to show that to my guests,” said Bickelhaupt. Cooking is how he releases his emotions and passions for life, and that is why each whimsical dish has his guests excited for what is to come next.
He experiments with one ingredient and tries to present it in every form possible. Cucumbers have a high water content, which makes manipulating it difficult for conventional chefs. But Bickelhaupt sees the potential in all ingredients, starting his meal with a trifecta of cucumber in a sorbet, an addition of a pickled element and a charred top to finish it off.
Next, salmon gets utilized in multiple ways to show how versatile one ingredient is. It has a light sear on top to make sure the underside stays raw, as a crudo. Bits of fried salmon skin ensure nothing is wasted and maintains the texture of the dish. The light orange orbs look like salmon roe, but the flavor and explosive quality mean they are in fact trout roe.
His memories take over when he composed the “field of dreams” dish. A piece of a corn cob is presented, and the sunshine yellow color makes it look practically picked the morning of. However, that would be far too simple. Instead, this is a sweet corn frozen treat. Fried corn husk, buttered popcorn foam and miniature pieces of pop sorghum emulate a movie theater classic. One bite and the entire movie comes alive.
Bickelhaupt has the ability to boggle the minds of eaters with unusual plates and enjoys watching their eyes erupt with excitement. Instead of shocking everyone with savory ice cream, he takes ice cream and places it atop a crisp waffle cone to create a new take on a classic dessert.
His chicken skin cone is the size of a bugle, and inside is a kumquat jam and whipped foie gras. The richness of the foie is the perfect homage to soft-serve ice cream, while the kumquat jam gives a tartness that balances out the salt. Neither a waffle nor pretzel cone can contend with the airy nature of this savory treat.
A mastery over proteins allows the chef to utilize both the land and sea in his menu. A small bite of scallop is hidden under a velvety butter sauce. While it looks simple, if the heating is even slightly off, the sauce is broken and the texture is lost. For those who want to amplify this luxurious bite, they can choose to embellish it with beads of beluga caviar for a pure oceanic taste.
The pure marbled state of Bickelhaupt’s notorious wagyu beef needs little manipulation. Only a Konro grill can sear the outside and warm the middle while still having it keep a deep pink hue. A steak knife is overkill for this buttery piece of meat. The melted fat makes it slice smoothly. and the sauce uplifts the earthiness that well-sourced resources provide.
Mushroom risotto is often viewed as a quintessential Italian dish, but Konro keeps it upscale American by using a multitude of grain and cooking it down together to make for a smooth finish. The crispy sprigs of onion have a sweeter taste, almost like caramelized onions, while the mushrooms give a robust earthy flavor.
The star is the egg yolk that has been confited in olive oil. It is rightfully placed in the center, so breaking into this yolk won’t run like a sunny-side-up breakfast. Instead, it is a smooth custard finish similar to a rich chocolate truffle.
Dessert may often get bypassed, but Bickelhaupt has too much energy to quit. Diners should expect to be treated to three, maybe even four sweet bites. His chocolate cherry creation erupts with classic flavors, but the presentation would leave anyone guessing as to what spoonful awaits them.
The aerated crumbles of chocolate look like they fell from the moon, but they are far from hard as rock. Gently spooned over the top is a vibrant pink foam with a tingling feeling on par with the tart cherry flavor that lingers after finishing it.
The chocolate dream looks unconventional. The final course embodies nostalgia, as an ice cream sandwich is their chosen send-off. A dante canelé, a french custard cake, is split to allow a scoop of coffee ice cream to be housed inside. The top has dots of a tangy creme and salty caramel. Usually, chefs add a dash of rock salt to amplify a caramel, but that is too overdone for Bickelhaupt’s liking. It forced him to see what else he could replicate in that salty and sweet combination. He excitedly adds chicken skin and miso to make people wonder if it is meant as an entreé or a true dessert.
The mind tricks that Bickelhaupt plays are light-hearted and leave diners awaiting their next show. He has acclaimed the highest achievements in his field, but the relationship he builds with guests is what allows his creativity to persist. He lets his emotions guide his menus, and you might want to take shotgun.
