The mention of plant-based eating is definitely an eyebrow raiser. I’ll apologize in advance to the muscle man, who is probably huffing under his breath as he imagines the ribeye he’ll rip apart after he’s finished at the gym. He’s not out of the norm by any means. It is a staple in America to have bacon and eggs for breakfast, and for kids to have chocolate milk with their ham and cheese sandwich for lunch. Even moms that enjoy salads won’t hesitate to top it with a lean protein like chicken or salmon. Why hide the greatness that is the array of colorful vegetables lying underneath all the meat? Stop hauling that bleak-looking crudéta plate to the cocktail party, – everyone knows it’s just a polite way of transporting absurd amounts of ranch into one’s mouth. Instead, stop by one of Denver’s newest vegan restaurants for a meal from the garden that will leave you feeling satisfied and completely shocked that there were no animals involved.
The restaurant Somebody People opened in September and has already become a beloved spot for anyone looking for a great bite near South Broadway. Just hop off the Broadway light rail and you’re only a couple blocks away. Plant lovers can rejoice here because at other restaurants they have to worry if there are menus that cater to their desires. Somebody People is the type of spot where your meat-loving friend would be happy to join you. The bright and lively atmosphere ropes you in first with low-hanging lights, a huge bar with counter seating and colorful hand-painted walls. These colors sing brighter than the fresh-squeezed juices that are a priority for all their drinks, alcoholic or not. The space feels like someone’s funky living room. This invitation into someone else’s home is also pretty fitting; on Sundays, Somebody People serves a family meal, meaning they take the reins on the menu and guests can sit back, relax and wait for their dishes to start stacking up on the table.
The restaurant’s menu changes weekly, but the attention to detail and immense creativity never fades. As their entry treat, they served sourdough bread from Reunion Bread Company, a staple bakery here in Denver. They paired it with a fruity olive oil and hunks of sea salt. The crust crumbles apart beautifully with every bite as the tender sourdough’s air pockets maximize the surface area for olive oil to get absorbed.
The first course was a roasted acorn squash for fall; this was accompanied by a cilantro lime creme, featuring garbanzo beans to give it the creamy texture, making it similar to a loose hummus. The lime segments placed sporadically throughout make for tasty hits of acid that livened up the hearty vegetables. This was an unsuspecting mix due to the fact that limes are more bright and summery while squash is a Thanksgiving staple. This dish represents that unique time of year where summer and fall are blurred together and the leaves are half green and half yellow. Then, the blistered carrots were set down at the table for the next course. Topped with pistachios for a savory crunch, the texture of the carrots were soft and barely required a knife for cutting. Whether it’s acid, or in this case the fresh herb mint, each dish has warming flavors that uplift the much needed freshness. The only time I have seen nuts and carrots partnered was in a carrot cake with walnuts. However, this savory duo has now completely changed the game.
Next up were the patatas bravas, or as I like to call them, the cooler cousin of the wedge fries. These chunks of farmer’s market potatoes hold a ton of flavor in their Mexican spice blend featuring ancho chile, cayenne pepper and cumin. The smokiness also gave it a barbecue feel that you won’t complain about. These potatoes have a crispy exterior to protect the treasure of the soft interior. They are sprinkled with microgreens on top, and below was an arugula salad that gave a different type of peppery note to the dish. The entire dish is meant to remind you just how much flavor a vegetable can hold.
Finally, the stainless steel pan approached the table, the main attraction had arrived. The night I went, they served a house-made rigatoni pasta featuring a pesto composed of the garden’s best provisions. The meatiness of king trumpet mushroom amplified the flavor and texture. A spoonful of caramelized mushrooms also reinforced the earthy flavors that they had been subtly featuring all night long.
However, the real star was the breadcrumbs that made the iconic crust you’d expect from a oven-baked mac and cheese. After breaking into that top shell, it exposed the pieces of rigatoni coated evenly in the creamy pesto sauces and a twirl of olive oil that were cooked perfectly to al dente.
After the meal came to a close, I had no reason to even wish there was a meat-related course. Usually, the protein is the star, but here, all eyes were on fruits and vegetables to successfully carry the team. Somebody People has an impressive way of demonstrating the future of food doesn’t have to belong in a steakhouse. Their way of creating food is no different than any other restaurant in Denver. They start with the best ingredients and then work diligently to bring out their best qualities. This is definitely a spot to try as the family meal has leftovers like you would with any home-cooked meal. It will feel like your family is filling you up now and making sure you’re fed later.
*Pro-tip: Bring your own leftover containers to keep with their zero-waste, sustainable initiative.
