This week we take a look at the River North’s (RiNo) newest coffee shop and restaurant, Stowaway Coffee + Kitchen. The co-owners, wife and husband Amy Cohen and Hayden Barnie, aim to bring Australian cafe culture to the Mile High City, asserting that one should no longer have to choose between great coffee and a real breakfast.
Having heard the hype about the cafe, I decided to check out their RiNo location at 2528 Walnut St. Despite a slightly unfinished looking and minimally branded storefront, upon stepping inside the cafe, I found myself inside a stylish, airy space. Large windows, skylights and an opening glass garage door illuminate an interior full of tropical plants, reclaimed walnut tables and painted white walls. The furnishings, whimsical but clean, create a cohesive aesthetic that seems to transport you to the subequatorial tropics.
Even on a Friday afternoon, nearly every table was full. Thanks to an attentive staff, though, I was seated and placed my order within minutes. The menu, crafted by Cohen, is short but intriguing, with entrées like a Smokey Shakshuka ($12) and Butternut Squash Ciabatta sandwich ($9.50, only available on weekdays) complementing the expansive coffee and tea selection. At the recommendation of the waitress, I ordered the (Welcome To) Colorful Colorado ($13), a salt and vinegar potato hash spiced with a zesty adobo sauce, topped with two poached eggs and garnished with avocado and pickled radishes.
The coffee selection should satisfy even the most discerning coffee snobs, with options for batch-brewed coffee, Aero-press and pour-over. I tried the Aero-press ($3.50), which, though it took longer than my entrée to arrive, was worth the wait. The beans, roasted by Boxcar Coffee Roasters and sourced from La Fortuna, Peru, produced a great cup with blueberry notes and a bright but not overly acidic body.
Having planned to get some work done while I was there, I whipped out my laptop and scanned the room for the nearest outlet. Alas, only one, lone outlet was to be found at the far corner of the cafe. As it turned out, the restaurant also lacked Wi-Fi (though thankfully a nearby xfinity hotspot worked fine).
Before leaving, I had to order a flat white ($3.50), the shining pinnacle of Australian and New Zealand coffee culture. If there were a place to try a proper flat white, this would be it.
Having gotten my day’s caffeine fix and feeling thoroughly full, I walked out satisfied and excited to come back.
Overall, while its hours and dearth of outlets and Wi-Fi make it a hard recommendation as a study spot, Stowaway Coffee + Kitchen’s charming atmosphere and great food make it an easy choice for breakfast or lunch on the town. Make sure to stop in between the hours of 7 a.m.- 3 p.m., (Closed Tuesdays), and 8 a.m.- 3 p.m on weekends.