It’s hard to talk about the culinary landscape of Denver without mentioning its golden child, the oldest restaurant in the Mile-High city, serving since 1893, the Buckhorn Exchange.
From the first gold miners and trappers to Teddy Roosevelt, this unassuming 19th century building has been the host and observer of many historical figures and of Denver’s yesteryears. Eating here is a lesson in history as one sits surrounded by artifacts, pictures and paintings from long past. Additionally, eating here is an experience in the paranormal. Over 100 years of history and a very rough and tumble atmosphere in its early years have left the Buckhorn Exchange with a reputation for spooky circumstances. Over the years, there have been countless reports of ghostly voices and footsteps, as well as tables moving on their own. So, if enjoying a little side of paranormal activity with your elk is right up your alley, visit the Buckhorn this Halloween weekend.
Dining at the Buckhorn is choosing to feast on what one would consider classic, authentic Western cuisine. There are no overly-pretentious dishes or complicated ingredients; the best word to describe the food here is “grassroot.” Appetizers at Buckhorn are one of the best ways to sample their wide arrangement of game without the risk of an entire entree. There are exotic dishes to try such as rattlesnake chipotle queso served with fresh tortilla chips ($22) or the always crowd pleasing Rocky Mountain Oysters (if you don’t know what these are be sure to ask a Coloradan) with horseradish sauce ($8 or $12).
The main course options at the Buckhorn are perfectly tailored, no exhaustive list of dishes, options or sides. All dinner entrees include a choice of soup or salad and side choices of garlic mashed potatoes, baked potato, natural potato chips and baked beans or wild rice. If you enter the Victorian building craving beef, you’re absolutely set with options ranging from a four-pound strip loin steak for five people ($215) to a classic 12-oz New York strip ($41). If beef isn’t your first choice, Buckhorn has you matched with elk steaks ($42), buffalo tenderloin ($45-$53), Cornish game hen ($27) and combination dishes that allow you to mix and match from most of the meats offered (including salmon and quail).
This Grinder has a rattlesnake appetizer ($22) (it tastes exactly like chicken for those wondering), and an 8-oz buffalo tenderloin ($45) for the main dish. While the food is by all means fantastic, the buffalo steak marinated and cooked perfectly, the cuisine is by no means exemplary. It therefore seems that one pays a steep tax for atmosphere and experience. While this might not necessarily be a bad thing to some, if one is only interested in fantastic and authentic western food, there might be more economical establishments. Obviously due to the prices, this is not a very college-friendly restaurant, but maybe a perfect weekend stop with the parents. It is, however, an experience deep in Colorado history, and like high tea at the Brown Palace Hotel, something every Denverite—no matter how temporary that label is—should do.
The Buckhorn Exchange is located at 10th and Osage.
