There’s no denying that the legendary Voodoo Doughnuts has taken Denver by storm, finding its cunning way into the bellies of sugar mongers and flagrant foodies alike. And while Voodoo patrons might believe they’re the ones doing the voodoo as they rupture the sweet jelly middle of a ‘Voodoo Doll’ with an unassuming pretzel stick, the voodoo is truly being done unto them in the form of an infatuation with oddball donuts.
Hailing from Portland, where hip is law, Voodoo lays claim to a longstanding reputation as a trailblazer in the realm of fried dough. Voodoo’s arrival summoned a cult-like gathering of Denver’s hippest, highest and hungriest. The aroma of sweet dough beckons meandering lines of salivating Denverites, each eager to acquire bubblegum pink boxes stuffed with holey treats.
Located at 1520 E. Colfax Ave., in the quickly gentrifying Colfax neighborhood, this area is home to a mish mash of tattoo parlors, dive bars, greasy diners, suspect storefronts and hip new food joints. The store’s Colfax location makes for an interesting mix of patrons. Families meet their small children’s sugar quota for an entire month, while hip mid-20s couples make comparative notes to Voodoo’s flagship store in Portland.
The first indicator of Voodoo Doughnuts’ hipness is its blatant determination to forgo the Americanized spelling of donut, instead opting to embrace a superfluous ‘ugh.’ At nighttime, Voodoo is often filled with more glazed eyes than glazed donuts, as partygoers seek out satiating snacks.
Voodoo’s atmosphere can most fittingly be described as paper-mache kitsch. Gawdy brass chandeliers lacking the subtlety of soft light illuminate unabashed yellow walls and primary colored floor tiles. Wall art is eclectic, the main attraction being a vibrant duct tape depiction of a woman’s face on the eastern wall. A giant paper-mache voodoo doll, modeled after Voodoo Doughnut’s signature doughnut hangs menacingly from the ceiling.
The sizable line gives first-timers a chance to take in the atmosphere and peruse the colossal menu. Unfortunately, digital menus on screens are hardly visible. Most viewed the full menu on their Smartphones while griping about the indecipherable screen on the menus.
With an infinite selection of raised donuts, cake donuts, fritters, cruellers and old-fashioned donuts, Voodoo covers all the bases. With toppings ranging from good ol’ sprinkles to Froot Loops, Oreos and Coconut flakes, Voodoo offers a little something for everyone. From rich chocolate-inspired favorites like the ‘Old Dirty Bastard’ to fruity sensations like the ‘Orangatang Doughnut’ to the childhood reminiscent ‘Voodoo Bubble Doughnut,’ the decision is not an easy one to make. It’s nearly impossible to leave Voodoo Doughnuts without at least four, some of which you’ll vow to “save for later.”
It’s likely, however, that the brimming donut box will miraculously empty itself, leaving the purchaser with frosting dripping from their chin amidst an assortment of crumbs, sprinkles and toppings gone rogue.
Voodoo’s vast array of toppings populate a giant kitchen. Bins carrying cereal, flavored powder, sprinkles, coconut shavings, marshmallows, candy bars and frosting rest in giant stacks.
While Voodoo certainly lives up to its mystifying name, donut purists might be deterred by all the fuss. And while the store offers an assortment of beverages, they are lacking the ultimate donut beverage accompaniment: milk. So be sure to BYO.
When visiting Voodoo Doughnuts, prepare for massive calorie intake and perhaps opt out of dinner. Sugar hangovers are almost a certainty. And be sure to arrive with a repertoire of quirky small talk—at least enough for the ten minute line wait. However, it’s possible you’ll run into someone interesting enough to render your prepared material unnecessary.
