Nestled in the heart of RiNo (the River North Art District) next to Zephyr Brewing Co is Biju’s Little Curry Shop, the culinary brainchild of Biju Thomas. Thomas spent years as a professional chef and cookbook author perfecting recipes from his formative years in the southern Indian region of Kerala.

Similar to its warehouse predecessor, the eatery’s floor is a pale stained cement, contrasted by vibrantly colored walls and a large map of India. A patio adorned with red and orange chairs looks out at an alley, joined to the interior by a large garage-style window.

The hole-in-the-wall restaurant is cozy, bright and very convenient. The diner moves through a Subway-esque line, customizing their bowl as they go. Your first choice is between a vegetarian, chicken or beef bowl—a combo bowl is also available, entitled the Naadan, the priciest option on the menu at $11.95. The incredibly flavorful proteins come atop either jasmine rice or biryani (a cashew and date rice dish) and are then hidden by a shredded cabbage and citrus slaw.

The choice of sauces and condiments is when the stakes get really high, with five possible routes. If you want to play it safe, the first option is the “Moor,” a mild dollop of yogurt with fresh chopped herbs. If you like it hot, Biju’s offers a roasted mint and tomato chutney, which is rivaled by the Samandhi, a bit hotter of a sauce with toasted coconut and ground red chiles. The last two—which have the capacity to turn your dining experience from spicy to agony—are the Adacheri, which is tamarind with birds-eye chiles, and the “Gunpowder” ghost pepper salt, made with one of the world’s spiciest peppers.

Overestimating my tongue’s pain threshold, I decided to add a little of the “Gunpowder” Ghost Pepper Salt to my beef bowl, which I have since qualified as the biggest mistake of my adult life.

Diners who are  21 and up who might follow suit should be comforted in knowing that Biju’s offers beer and wine when they realize that what they thought to be edible food is actually literal fire.

Ultimately, the ambience is relaxed, the food is terrific, the distance from campus is worth the drive and if you’re an aspiring fire eater, it’s the perfect place to train.

Biju’s Little Curry Shop is located at 1441 26th Street and serves lunch and dinner daily from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.