Brushstrokes gliding across the walls of RiNo Art District give new life to the tattered stone that once lay blank all the way down Larimer Street. The minds of artists explored each makeshift canvas to grab the attention of all of those walking. Oftentimes, the colors are boisterous but adored. The walls are gravitating, to say the least.
These majestic murals stand with the stores and restaurants that snuck their way into the spaces left untouched. The harsh scent of acrylic paint is replaced by the rustic, salty smell of the coastline. It’s the embodiment of waking up to a steaming bitter coffee and vine-ripe vegetables even without a true garden in site, each space reflecting authenticity in their full expression.
The expectation of visiting RiNo would be finding contemporary aesthetics everywhere, which is somewhat true. However, right past the camouflage brewery that stands out with its pops of pinks, reds and blues, the mysterious black stone of one spot has an industrial feel that juxtaposes the entire street.
This dull appearance immediately fades upon entering the humble establishment of Owlbear Barbecue. Its counter service and frills are minimal, but the passion for cooking and creating edible art is how this place can shine even when pitted against the walls next door.
Eating here means forgoing the white table cloth and daintily folded napkins. Parchment paper gives an old country vibe while the roll of paper towel is there to clean you up every step of the way.
The butcher stands with a slow-roasted piece of meat as you decide what will decorate your plate. A chalkboard has scribbles of their daily offering on it, and you better be sure to arrive before any get crossed off—you want every possibility to choose from. Just as the chalk says, it’s a real bummer to not get a taste of their barbecued magic.
Each item gets delicately placed in the ginormous smokers that are parked right outside the front door. Two high-rising metal cylinders release the smell of oak into the air, and the belly of the smoker swirls the smoke around the meat as it cooks to infuse as much earthy flavor as possible. The meat innocently gets put in with their rub giving an orange and red hue. After hours of anticipation, it’s removed and appears as asphalt. Nevertheless, the flavor radiates as if it were every color in the rainbow.
The pulled pork is accurately named; the shoulder bone glides away from the meat causes each shred to fall away from each other because of the loss of the central piece of integrity. The time in the smoker melted the fat into juices to tenderize every piece. The best way to cook any piece of meat is in the flavor it already offers. The spice doesn’t overpower the wholesomeness of the pork flavor, which is consistent across all their dishes. The same crackling crust on the brisket will never be replaced. Don’t fear the char on the burnt ends, because the delicate roast allows for the inside to remain as tender as a rare steak. Think of it as thick pieces of jerky.
These options gave Owlbear a huge following, but their ingenuity with new flavors and ingredients is what keeps people coming back. Their techniques for low and slow cooking allow for any type of meat to transform into a tender and addictive dish. Pulled duck and lamb have the same texture as the pork we’ve come to adore, yet their unique flavor profiles alter the dish to new heights. The representation of barbecue never fades but the different iteration allows for the excitement to remain. It’s similar to riding down the mountain on a powder day, even if it’s a different mountain. Your skis still slide the same yet you’ve gained a new perspective on skiing from the new path being taken.
The bacon steak is exactly how it sounds. Thick pieces of marbled bacon make the paper-thin store-bought option no longer seem acceptable. All the while, it cuts easily and tastes better than the cut of pork everyone seems to adore.
Turkey is another option that grazes their menu from time to time. It’s treated similarly to a hunk of brisket, patted until completely covered in seasoning then left in the smoker until it’s almost forgotten about. The result is what the idea of Thanksgiving should be—the royal treatment of such a bird. If you compile each slice into a sandwich, it would definitely put the turkey club out of business.
No barbecue feast would be complete without sides that complement the main attraction. It is what finally gives the array of colors that RiNo is known for.
Their vibrant pickles belong among the greenery in the garden. They offer a counterpoint to whichever meat you choose, with a crispy crunch and an acidic flavor.
In addition, the slaw is dressed lightly, which allows the crescendo of colors to remain seen, with hints of purple and orange that belong on the wall outside. But the sweet creaminess balances out the richness of the platter.
The mac and cheese fits perfectly into their menu with thick penne noodles allowing for more strings of cheese to cling to each piece. A heaping scoop from the dish they bake enormous batches of always overflows out of the plaid red basket it calls home. Each bite will be a battle to win as the rest of the cheese strings for miles without the intent of being broken. The best piece is the top that has been broiled to cast a protective shell of cheese and breadcrumbs from drying out the ooey-gooey inside. The richness will definitely have you kick your boots up in satisfaction.
Finally, the meat drenches all of its flavor-filled juices onto the piece of pristine white bread that lay on top of it. It’s a feast for sure.
While it’s easy to get distracted in the walls of RiNo, even just taking a second to see what’s really among them might produce more awe than the art itself.
