As long as you’re not a big fan of “Babe” or “Charlotte’s Web,” Old Major is the carnivorous emporium for you. This Grinder ventured out to the elegantly rustic restaurant, located in Denver’s LoHi neighborhood, for brunch this past Sunday. Upon my arrival I was immediately impressed with the service, being whisked away to a nearby table almost the second I entered the pig-centric building. As I perused the menu, I realized what a swine shrine I’d endeavored to explore, the brunch menu fraught with a plethora of pork preparations: the Butcher’s Breakfast ($13), Smoked Pork Chops ($15) and Pork Schnitzel ($13), to name a few.
Old Major is the concoction of Justin Brunson, who serves as both the executive chef and owner. Born and raised on an Iowan farm, it’s clear Brunson kept his agricultural roots in mind when he envisioned the eatery. The restaurant, which is an homage to the pig in George Orwell’s classic “Animal Farm,” subscribes to the popular farm-to-table movement, with cured meats made in-house. But be advised, Pios, this impressive detail does not come cheap; the Pork Breakfast Burger set me back $13, so make sure you come prepared to splurge.
The establishment, though once a whopping 3,000 square-foot roller rink, manages to communicate a simple with its exposed brick and planked wood. There is an extensive bar that I imagine is occupied by diners drawn in by the eclectic cocktail program when it’s not 11 a.m. Despite the early hour, it was easy to tell that Old Major has a fun and laid-back ambience, the restaurant-goers a mix of families and hungover hipsters eager to consume the contemporary farmhouse fare.
When my meal arrived—the pork patty topped with american cheese, two thick slices of bacon and a fried egg with pork fat fries—my mind conjures images from a “Man v. Food”depisode. The sandwich is monstrous and certainly not a mascot for healthy eating but I dig in hungrily and am pleased to find it’s the best platter of protein I’ve tasted in months. All in all, a visit to Old Major is the perfect fix for anyone with a carnivorous craving or in training for a major league eating contest.
