Linger is perhaps Denver’s most morbid eatery, located in a former mortuary called “Olinger” that housed serial killer Buffalo Bill’s body for a time. The restaurant pays homage to this history with its neon sign, which has the “O” in “Olinger” darkened and “Mortuaries” altered to “Eatuaries”, along with small touches like a coffin-shaped happy hour menu. However, there’s certainly nothing stale or decaying about this hip and lively Denver hot spot.
The space has a unique layout and vibe as it was not built to be a restaurant. However, this only adds to the atmosphere of the re-purposed building. High ceilings and dark paint paired with vintage and modern accessories and touches gives the restaurant a sophisticated air. The space was packed when I entered, low chatter filling the cavernous main room with a friendly vibe.
Another huge perk of the restaurant is complimentary valet parking (while space lasts), which is honestly priceless in the Highlands neighborhood in which it is located.
The best deals are definitely offered at Happy Hour, which runs from 4-6:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. The drink menu consists of a variety of $4 draft beers, including Dry Dock Apricot Blonde and River North White Ale among others, as well as $5 cocktails featuring rum, gin, wine, vodka and even absinthe with various delicious mixtures. However, Happy Hour is not only limited to drinks, but also includes a variety of small, appetizer-like plates for $5, including sliders, salads, fries and wings, all with a sophisticated touch.
Happy Hour is hosted at the bar and rooftop only, and space is first-come-first-served, so you may end up waiting for a bit until a table opens up. However, the wait is completely worth it, and you will be able to soak in the unique architecture and amazing views (both the rooftop and bar offer them) that Linger has to offer.
I dined on Sweet Potato Waffle Fries (served with chipotle ketchup), Wagyu Sliders (served with peppered bacon, cheddar and curried sour cream) and Devils on Horseback (bacon, dates, goat cheese and Sambal gastrique) shared between a friend and me. Each dish cost only $5, was perfect to share and tasted absolutely delicious.
The fries and sliders were each a take on a familiar dish, but done up with gourmet ingredients that gave them a unique flair. Devils on Horseback was honestly unlike any food that I am familiar with, but was a sweet and succulent marriage of a classic comfort food (bacon) and special fruit (dates) that worked perfectly.
If you’re in a the mood for a slightly fancier alternative to the usual fare around DU, make the trip to Linger with a group and enjoy the atmosphere, history and good eats. You’ll be dying to come back.
