Coloradans have the utmost pride in their mountain backdrop, but everyone needs to feel the warm sand on their feet and hear the breaking tide roll in. Fish N Beer offers the essence of the ocean scene through its seafood-focused menu. The restaurateurs are bringing a new twist to the concept of farm-to-table dining.
Located on Larimer street, the restaurant fits in well as a unique hideaway in Five Points. Fish N Beer captures the sights and smells of a restaurant perched at the end of a beach dock. It’s definitely no crab shack, as the restaurant is full of thoughtful additions and the bar seating displays busy chefs at work. The music in the background is a mix of hip hop and fun tunes, emphasizing the laid-back and neighborhood-friendly atmosphere.
The open kitchen allows the scents of a fish on the hearth to circulate the restaurant. Whether it is a squeeze of lime or beer batter hitting the fryer, the aroma makes choosing a dish difficult.
After ordering a first-round, another call for calamari will be in order. Each bite-sized piece has a golden coating that adds crunch. The chefs at Fish N Beer add cornmeal to achieve the texture that flour could never accomplish alone. Instead of the traditional marinara, they trade in acidity for the spicy saltiness of a soy-tobiko sauce. It is creamier and feels like the beloved classic of a fish fry with tartar sauce.
For chips and dip, they meld together poke and guacamole for a lighter appetizer. This smooth guac acts as the foundation for cubes of seared ahi to sit on. The ruby-red interior remains raw, and it is covered in a spicy seasoning blend that has sriracha mayo on top.
Fish N Beer also carries classic Louisiana dishes, but beyond the beignets and crawfish bakes, they bring in the Po’Boy. The New Orleans style begins with a soft yet strong baguette that can hold the weight of a half-pound of shrimp. The remoulade offers richness from the mayo, heat from the mustard and spice from the creole blend to make for a triumphant sauce.
Salmon and potatoes might not seem iconic, but potato latkes and salmon roe make for some good bites. They transform the potatoes into pillowy delicate gnocchi and add an extra layer of caramelization. The effect is an earthiness from the bitter notes of kale and umami in the mushrooms. Nothing brings flavors together better than butter, which is the base of their sauce. On top lies the grilled salmon, teetering on the edge of done and raw.
Each dish ensures fish is at the forefront and the elements around that are simply a compliment. Most lobster mac and cheese is a vat of cheesy noodles with speckles of lobster, but at Fish N Beer, two halves of lobster are basted in butter that hugs the bowl of mac. It allows for each bite to have sweet lobster round out the rich mac and cheese. Go for the fish, or go home!
It feels like a beach-house getaway at the Denver altitude. Their fish is flown in first class to ensure that it goes straight from out of the water and into the plane. The undertow smell of the restaurant feels as authentic as a crowded fish market.
Fish N Beer brings everything we like about the coast. They hooked us from the start with their fish-cious talent preparing the sea’s offerings.
