The Noshery’s tried and true homestyle pancake platter | Photo by Haley Paez (DU Clarion)

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The Denver food scene expands beyond the restaurants lit up by the Union Station lights. Just a short drive beyond the Highlands lies The Noshery, a quaint eatery composed of a husband and wife team who bring a homestyle menu with an artisanal touch. 

The white facade with baby blue accents brings attention to the little establishment. At 6:30 a.m., the Noshery is open and ready to serve the early-risers from the Berkely community. 

The sweet smells of their homemade pastries are the first to greet those who step inside. Their notorious nosh is their doughnuts, which are rings of brioche dough instead of the typical cake or yeast. The fluffy and buttery dough is more akin to the beloved Pillsbury crescent than a dense doughnut. Their addictiveness is only increased by the inclusion of the doughnut hole. 

On Saturdays, their cinnamon rolls come rolling out of the oven. These are another brioche-based treat that swirls cinnamon, sugar and butter into the rich dough. Each roll is layered with frosting that begins to melt and mix with the bubbling cinnamon spread inside. The spread saturates the dough and emulates the texture of a half-baked cookie. 

Every breakfast shop has its version of pancakes, as it appeals to kids and those who are kids at heart. An excuse to have cake for breakfast makes them an easy choice, but the Noshery livens up their flapjacks with notes of honey and cinnamon. They are thick enough to create contrast between the toasted outer layer touched by the flattop and the pillowy, airy inside. 

It is easy to get swept up in the sweets, but they provide the same love and attention to their savory options as well. Their potato pancake on the menu might resemble griddled hash browns or the likeness of a latke, but that would only be half true. They have a layer of shredded potatoes topped with pancake batter, so it’s a potato pancake in a literal sense. A green onion crema emulates a scallion cream cheese for a final element of excitement and added depth of flavor.

While the Noshery doesn’t seek to completely reinvent the culinary industry with exotic ingredients and gastronomical techniques, they offer a breakfast done right. Their ingredients are sourced with pride, giving their eggs a glowing color and their wheat products a hint of nuttiness. From creamy scrambled eggs to coffee cake that forgoes frosting for sugary crumble, it is all about execution. Other restaurant menus ramble for ages, while the Noshery knows what they do best and parses it down to ensure only the best comes from the kitchen. 

It’s always hard to get up in the morning, but the dishes coming out of the Noshery make it easy.

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