Restaurant pop-ups are exceeding expectations as they continue to emerge anywhere and everywhere. No longer are diners restricted to sitting at a brick-and-mortar location with the restaurant’s name plastered on the entranceway. Pop-ups can find a home in basements, fields, barns or closed coffee shops where the kitchen is waiting to be used after hours.
One of the newest pop-ups in Denver is thriving within an outdoor bar space that wasn’t being occupied by Mister Oso, a beloved Denver establishment.
The dormant liquor bar became Ben Wolven’s showroom for patrons to step into his oyster oasis, Oyster Wulff. When the sun begins to fall, outdoor heaters turn on and Wolven’s single lamplight illuminates his work. There is the subtle hum of cars down the road, the buzz of people enjoying dinner, and pops of oyster shells to remind everyone of the freshness soon to arrive.
Wolven’s entrancement with oysters began early, just like others born surrounded by the seafood of Maine. He prizes the smell of salt in the ocean more than a fancy perfume, as it represents goods that can only be found in the Northeast. Wolven tries to capture and provide these memories to those in the mountains.
Wolven’s oysters are straight from his neighbors at Maine Oyster Company. He is involved in the entire process of finding oysters and making sure only the best arrives. These oysters deserve a craftsman, and Wolven is the one for the task as a championship shucker.
His talent is obvious once the dozen are presented. Most places tear through the body of the oyster, and the shucker can flip it to reveal their error. Wolven makes a point to never serve a flipped oyster.
“I didn’t really want to be in the restaurant industry anymore, but there’s something about oysters that keeps me coming back. I love what I grew up on, and I want more people to see why,” said Wolven.
As far as accoutrements, he passes on the ketchup or, as he calls it, “tomato sugar,” and mushy canned horseradish. Instead, he keeps the horseradish as pure as the oyster and grabs straight at the root. Pungent flavor comes through in layers to create a hot sensation from the shaved threads of fresh horseradish. Its delicate nature allows the oyster to shine through, and it is complemented by the accouterment. A light mignonette cuts through the salt with acidic vinegar, a taste that can also be achieved with the slice of lemon on the ice tray.
The glimmer of oysters makes them more enticing. People often squirm before enjoying their first oyster, as they appear slimy. But these have an irresistible smoothness. Whether slurping or chewing them, their flavor bursts immediately with a taste reminiscent of the ocean. Breathe in and get ready for the next shell.
Wolven offers a variety of oysters such as sweet, buttery, citrusy and briny, all of which are posted on the vine-covered back wall. His rustic wooden sign is updated every time he rotates oysters. It is plain and simple, like those you would see at a seafood shack on the docks of Maine. Each week, he impresses with the fruit of his home.
The best part is that he’s right in front to answer any oyster question that comes to mind or spark up a conversation about food culture in general. It almost emulates an omakase, where the chef is there to present his best offerings. The diners get to enjoy the craft of a true artisan, while the chef himself relishes in taking in the smiles, widened eyes and words of amazement from his diners.
He may be the oyster connoisseur, but no man of Maine can deny their unbreakable bond with the iconic red crustacean the state is known for—the lobster. Instead of presenting a thick- toasted brioche bun that drips with butter, Wolven takes the lobster out of its element and manifests the lobster “cronchwrap” supreme.
Surprisingly, the taco fixings do not overwhelm the meat. Instead, the lobster’s sweetness and freshness give new life to this once-heavy fast food. He adds a spicy aioli to meet the needs of a mayo-based lobster roll and the heat of a Mexican feast. Crunch from the inner fried tortilla achieves the texture often provided by kettle chips served alongside a lobster roll.
Oysters and lobster are all he’s got at this bar, but with the high quality that he delivers, there’s nothing more he needs. He does what any good chef should do—let the ingredients be the reason people come back for more. Wolven understands manipulating seafood can take away from its simple beauty rather than amplify, so he makes sure it can be enjoyed in its purest form.
