Waiting in lines can be tough. That’s why amusement parks invented fast passes for the high spenders with low patience. Sadly, the world doesn’t come with a way to cut to the front but that doesn’t mean you always have to wait either. A surprise visit from my family made for weekend brunch to be of the highest priority. Our first stop greeted us with a smile and an hour wait for a table. Even though the kind hostess wrote down our names, we knew we weren’t interested in staying. While patience is a virtue, impatience led us right next door to Charcoal Bistro, a contemporary American restaurant that gives a subtle homage to its Scandinavian roots.
Upon entering the dining room lit with a yellow glow from the skylight, it radiated a sense of openness that was only further highlighted by the lack of patrons. This made for some unsettling feelings as restaurants with a crowd define its noteworthiness. People pay other people to stand in line at Dominique Ansel’s bakery starting at 6:30 in the morning when the doors open at 8 a.m. – now that’s commitment. But never fear, because the surprises in life are what ultimately be the most enjoyable. I was overwhelmingly shocked to find this hidden gem especially as my search for the best brunch in Denver continues. Here on South Gaylord Street in the Wash Park area, Charcoal Bistro offered an ideal way to begin another blue sky day by avoiding the hustle and bustle that might come later.
It stays true to its desire for an upscale contemporary fare because it doesn’t list a laundry list of options all falling under the same category. Other restaurants will bore you with every single type of omelette recipe just so that the last possible option is to make your own, which kind of defeats the purpose of having all the predecessors in the first place. But it doesn’t stop with omelets; it extends to every item on the menu and your stomach begins to grumble for lunch staples by the time you’ve read through each choice. Charcoal isn’t interested in making you read a novel. Instead, they offer a limited menu that accentuates the skill and attention head chef Patrik Landberg has put into cultivating his menu.
Breakfast can be quick and easy for ultimate mobility, but when you have a chance to breathe and enjoy the meal, it can be just as special as a fancy dinner. Charcoal Bistro makes it clear that eating here is a restaurant experience by offering classics that are by no means ordinary. They don’t do any mainstream avocado toast, so the green pop from a California-style shmear is out of the question. Instead, they have their own take on a New York style bagel with lox. They begin by stacking pancakes. Sure, they aren’t the fluffy one dosed with Mrs. Butterworth, but the perfectly golden outside and mashed potato inside gives the best texture combination. It looks like a thick chip at first and the skin crinkles like the crows feet beside eyes smiling after enjoying such a unique, delicious breakfast. The flavors normally mixed with lox have not left its side with red onions, tomato, dill and any style of eggs. The only food duo that surpasses salmon with dill is peanut butter and jelly. Large sprigs of dill are arranged on the plate to make sure it’s herbaceous punch is felt. Piled high like a sky-scraping plate of nachos, the smoked salmon flakes throughout and the mustard is stone-grounded with thick seeds large enough to give the dish a surprising pop. Then to finish it off, they add eggs any style. But if you want it done right, it must be a fried egg to act as the finishing sauce. Other upscale trending dishes include their Wild Boar Benedict that puts the classic pork green chili to shame.
Always a good option is to take a ride on the sweet side and Charcoal Bistro delivers. Other institutions will try to wow you with every type of pancake known to man with candy coarsed throughout and pie filling dosed on top. It’s hard to compete with French toast that rolled in frosted flakes and crunch-ified, but that fails in comparison to the Cinnamon Roll French toast that lines their menu. Unlike cinnamon roll inspired dishes that might be drizzled with a cinnamon sugar swirl or cinnamon butter, this is seriously a cinnamon roll drenched in batter then put on the griddle to toast. The brioche dough gives it added richness and a buttery flavor that is just unbeatable. The texture emulates a warm half-baked cookie. They’re better than the ones that just escaped the oven. Although I thought the ideal topping would be cream cheese melting slowly, the sticky maple syrup makes for a hybrid with a pecan caramel bun. Dusted with powdered sugar and a hint of salty from the breakfast essential bacon. There are three of these bad boys in one order, so accept the challenge as an individual or share the wealth. Regardless you’ll be satisfied for the entire day.
Even on the busiest weekend brunch time, Charcoal is open and ready to dole out the goods. Not really a breakfast person? Their dinner menu is just as mouthwatering, with a Double Cheeseburger crowned with spicy bacon jalapeño jam that trumps ketchup or mustard. A lighter fare is succulent pan-roasted chicken with brussel sprouts charred to resemble chips all on top of a silky eggplant purée. While they do have a steak and potato dish, this is their alternative take to that and it is just as satisfying. Hopefully, this still maintains its hidden gem status but the food is so well prepared that a line would still be worth it just like the roller coasters’ ones are.
