Denver is a great ice cream town. Whether it’s a first date or an autumn afternoon outing with a grandparent, ice cream is sure to shine in any situation. Read on for the Grind’s take on three Denver ice creameries, all of which have become veritable institutions in the world of frozen desserts.
Bonnie Brae Ice Cream:
4 beans
Bonnie Brae, tightly-packed into a small shop at 799 South University Blvd., is the keystone business of the DU area. The neighborhood is a busy commercial island in a residential community; beside Bonnie Brae is a florist, library, bakery and other shops.
A long line usually snakes its way around the corner of the ice creamery, and, inside, staff members work in a frenzy to fill customer orders. The walls are adorned with numerous awards as well as chalkboards denoting the flavors of the day. A handful of tables, usually taken, sit outside the establishment.
Compared to our other two selections here, Bonnie Brae’s flavors lean more towards the mundane. Though their flavors change every day and are made in the shop, one shouldn’t expect to nosh on any unusual flavors here. The people at Bonnie Brae stick to the traditional favorites like chocolate, fruit flavors and flavors based on candy bars, like Snickers.
The crowd here is primarily older folks and families. It’s not uncommon to see grandparents with their grandchildren, yuppie parents pushing strollers or the occasional runner who has wisely stopped into Bonnie Brae after a long stroll through Wash Park to sample some of Denver’s finest.
Sweet Action Ice Cream:
4.8 beans
If Bonnie Brae caters to Denver families, Sweet Action caters to hipster millennials. Their off-the-wall creations make this institution, located at 52 Broadway in hipsterdom’s heart, a favorite of those seeking adventure and whimsy. The neighborhood is jam-packed with great dining, drinking and entertainment, thus Sweet Action is a delicious nightcap to anyone’s Broadway excursion.
Sweet Action is renowned for its universe of flavors, including some that push up against the line of weirdness, and some that cross that line. When this grinder visited, the mad scientists of frozen treats had whipped up Colorado sweet corn flavored ice cream, roasted green chile flavored ice cream and an array of less ostentatious options.
This creativity also extends to how the ice cream is made; Sweet Action offers vegan choices as well as traditional options and ice cream sandwiches.
The space itself is open, complete with a garage-door- style window that opens onto the street, letting sun and whatever’s being smoked waft in. Sweet Action is like a siren for hipsters and their kind, and they flock to the establishment on summer nights, when the line stretches well down the street. The servers here are tattooed, pierced and, for serving cold product, very warm-hearted.
Little Man Ice Cream:
4.15 beans
Little Man Ice Cream, located in Northwest Denver at 2620 16th St., is a quirky can-in-the-middle-of-nowhere shop with a devout following. The ice cream is served out of a neo-brutalist, fifty-foot tall milk jug located in a concrete plaza with plenty of benches and tables.
Little Man seems to attract young people, folks from the neighborhood and an inordinate amount of dogs, which provide ample cuteness to entertain patrons during the long wait. On a summer or warm fall night, the line at Little Man rivals that of Sweet Action or Bonnie Brae on their busiest days.
The parking and restroom situations here are also a bit tricky, so leave plenty of time for this trip. Although Little Man seems close to downtown, it’s quite a walk from the Union Station light rail station.
Little Man’s flavors are innovative and change often, luring patrons to return. Sample the out-of-this-world space junkie and Mexican chocolate—both are excellent.
If the marks of a quality ice creamery include changing menus, innovative flavors and the ability to bring a smile to people of all generation, then Little Man, Sweet Action and Bonnie Brae are all excellent.
