Denver has often been criticized for being one of the major cities that has not yet fully grown into itself. For some, Denver’s amorphous identity makes it the ideal place to be a self-starter. Others liken the Mile High City to an overcompensatory younger sibling, overeager in their pursuit of self-definition. This Grinder was overcome by the sudden recognition of what Denver stands for upon stepping into Atticus.
Located next to Boone’s Tavern at 1115 E. Evans Ave., Atticus captures the essence of our oxygen-deprived little cowtown with its westurban rusticity and pork-belly dominated menu.
The neighborhood restaurant is owned by the folks of Tavern-to-Table, who also own Boone’s Tavern and Handlebar Tavern. Their philosophy is rooted in loyalty to the surrounding community, which may explain the distinct Denver vibe that Atticus exudes.
It’s likely that Atticus has been overlooked by the DU community thus far, having opened just recently in February of this year.
Any hip Denverite will feel right at home at Atticus, with its tin embellished bar, wrought iron light fixtures and an assortment of eclectic western-influenced I.
Maps, bovine representational artwork, inspirational quotes about travel, a penny-farthing replica and even an old fashioned typewriter adorn the walls, intermingled with quaintly decorated chalkboards listing specials and drink options. A large sculpted elk head drives home the western theme, but its replica status will appease any taxonomy-disapproving patrons.
Fresh flowers rest contently in sun-filtering mason jars on each respective table, and if that weren’t quaint enough, the restaurant’s playlist is a mix of nostalgia-inducing guitar-strummers like Jack Johnson and Jason Mraz. The hip may try to avoid muttering the lyrics under their breath while munching on some Pork Belly Biscuits.
The cozy bar and restaurant is open almost all day everyday, opening early with breakfast and coffee at 8 a.m. and staying open until 10:30 p.m. with dinner options and specialty cocktails from their full bar. The breakfast, lunch and dinner menus are extensive, with prices ranging from $7-$12 for breakfast and lunch and dinner ranging from $14-$18.
Atticus doesn’t skip the originals, with their Classic Breakfast at $8, but there are far more enticing options such as the waitress-recommended Chorizo French Toast and the tasty Eggs Benedict with Prosciutto. Most meat-eaters would agree that prosciutto should be added to everything. Other options like the Gouda Croissant and Breakfast Burrito cover all the bases. And thank goodness that this local-friendly restaurant carries Kaladi Brothers coffee, unlike other misguided breakfast joints in the DU area.
Notable lunch options such as the Apple and Brie Ciabatta and Chicken Curry sandwich may leave a brunch addict questioning their preferential treatment of breakfast foods.
Dinner options range from Herb Encrusted Quail and Grilled Hangar Steak to Wild Boar Chili and Spaetzle. Atticus’ desserts are all under $5, a pleasing price for your average sugar-mongering modster.
While Denver still has room to cement an identity, it’s nice to be reminded every so often that the Mile High City has a cultural identity—and not just one based on the legalization of a certain potent foliage. Atticus will remind us of the good ol’ days (even just the ones of our imaginations), and provide a new home on the range for hip westerners, wannabes and wayfarers.
