In 2012, the space between Jason’s Thai and Uni Nails, formerly known as The Border, became Merchant’s Mile High Saloon. The bar totes a “nautical-rock theme” and was influenced by the Merchant’s Saloon in Oakland, California, a nautical dive bar established in 1916 beside a line of produce warehouses. In November, Merchant’s implemented a pizza oven and began branching out from traditional bar food, to boast a full-fledged Italian menu, complete with garlic cheesy bread and breadsticks.

This Grinder decided to venture into the pelagic-influenced bar on a Thursday to sample the pizza selection. Soon after entering the dark atmosphere, I met Rex, a bartender and practically permanent fixture of the establishment who described himself as a Pisces that enjoys long walks on the beach, and filled me in on the transformation of the DU student hotspot.

Each element of the wood-fired pizza is homemade, and Merchant’s strives to eventually offer additional items such as calzones. Although Rex advised me that pepperoni was the best-seller, I went off of the seemingly-solid recommendation that cheese ($3) was the way to go, and sampled it atop the bar while the Avalanche game emoted in the background.

Surprisingly, the pizza was delicious, a compilation of four varieties of cheese: Pecorino, Romano and two types of mozzarella. It was more than one would expect from a bar-turned-eatery in which your feet stick to the floor, with homemade ingredients that churn out a soiree of dough, sauce, cheese and toppings that transport the diner to the likes of Italy. Despite such despairing surroundings, with an array of mermaid paintings and nautical accents, the products of the authentic pizza oven were superior both in taste and in sight. Diners sober and intoxicated alike will enjoy the massive slice they’re presented, with the appended toppings that can include pepperoni, sausage, garlic, black olives, green peppers, mushrooms and red onions.

Patrons of at least 21 years of age can also indulge in the unique drink menu that includes both classics, such as the Merchant of Margarita ($6), as well as new conceptions like the Friends with Benefits ($8), described as “that old flame you can call for whatever” made with cointreau, gin, sweet vermouth, tiki bitters and orange juice. All in all, the amenities are recommended to those who have a hefty appetite, looking to relieve some stress with an acquiesce for distasteful backdrops. The only notable caveat is that it’s most advantageous to wear disposable footwear.