Lao Wang may be lacking in the typical “hip” ambiance, but the food makes up for it. Photo by Meg McIntyre.

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A quick glance down Denver’s South Federal Boulevard reveals one of the largest gatherings of Pho restaurants around. From Pho Duy to Pho 95, any pho-obsessed Denverite will quickly tell you that Federal is the place to be.

One wouldn’t normally head to this neighborhood in search of Chinese delicacies, yet nestled among this slew of Vietnamese eateries is Lao Wang Noodle House, Denver’s most heavenly haven of Chinese dumplings and noodles. Located at 945 S. Federal Blvd, Lao Wang Noodle House is a delicious excursion into authentic Chinese cuisine.

Those unfamiliar with Lao Wang Noodle House would never notice it, as its unassuming storefront is hidden within a strip that looks just like every other on Federal, but those who know where to go are privy to a secret worth knowing. Don’t be scared away by the underwhelming exterior—past the somewhat worn red and white sign is an unexpected mecca of gastronomic pleasure.

It’s clear that most of the patrons are loyal regulars, but mixed among those coming to eat their native cuisine are the masses of hip foodies that heard about Lao Wang in one or another highfalutin restaurant review. The Noodle House is also run by a wizened native-speaking couple. The husband and wife appear to be the establishment’s only employees, and despite their age, bring steaming piles of dumplings in an exigent manner.

Lao Wang Noodle House’s small, simply decorated space is the perfect spot for an intimate evening for two – or four, or six, as long as you don’t mind being a bit crowded. The space is modest, with empty walls save for the wooden menus written in Chinese that hang on either side of the room, but the delicious aroma of simmering dumplings provides more than enough atmosphere. Be prepared to test your chopstick skills, as there are no forks to be found in this authentic eatery.

If you get the chance, use those chopsticks to test out Lao Wang Noodle House’s signature soup dumplings. These succulent pouches are filled with a tantalizing mixture of ground pork and steaming soup. Be sure to use a spoon when enjoying these dumplings as they are apt to burst.

Though the ‘Xiao Long Bao’, or soup dumplings, are one of the Noodle House’s most popular featured menu items (and rightly so), the Noodle House offers an assortment of Chinese dishes, including pot stickers, shrimp and pork dumplings and various types of hot and cold noodles.

Health conscious hipsters beware—there are very few vegetarian options, while gluten-free patrons would be better off dining somewhere else altogether. Still, carnivores and carb-lovers alike will be in heaven once they try an order of pan-seared pork pot stickers or dan-dan noodles.

Lao Wang Noodle House’s menu also features Lao Wang Lager, a beer produced by up-and-coming Denver microbrewery, CAUTION: Brewing Company. The lager is the only alcoholic option, but underage customers can also enjoy a can of soda for just $1.

This delectable dumpling joint has not yet been discovered by the DU crowd, making it the perfect place to flaunt your hipster know-how. Next time you’re looking for a new haunt, make the 15 minute drive over to Federal the best dumplings in Denver. Meals range from $8 – $25.

Lao Wang Noodle House is open for lunch and dinner Wednesday through Saturday and lunch on Sunday. Their hours are 11:00 a.m. – 3:30 p.m. and 6:00 – 8:30 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday and 12:00 – 3:00 p.m. on Sundays.

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