Beatrice & Woodsley offers unique drinks and small and simple entrees.

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Beatrice & Woodsley offers unique drinks and small and simple entrees.

Beatrice & Woodsley fine dining restaurant is nestled in the comfortably-hip cruiser territory of South Broadway abreast the Mayan, Sputnik and who-could-forget Buffalo Exchange. A plain and unassuming storefront fails to capture your attention amidst a row of rowdy bars – and that’s exactly how the restaurant wants it.

According to Douglas Ambrose, assistant manager and event coordinator, the restaurant is meant to be reminiscent of a “hidden, overgrown cottage in the woods,” and restaurant patrons are led on a mythical journey to get there. Take up the quest and you won’t be disappointed – the motif extends through the interior, which is divided by towering aspen trunks throughout, to even the bathrooms, which are hidden in a copse of vegetation-meets-high-fashion decor.

The restaurant describes its style simply as “small plates, big wine.” True to its inspiration, the atmosphere is the primary appeal, mixing contemporary class of clean lines with rustic touches, such as wood-burning stoves. The effect is an understated elegance to the tune of Miles Davis and MGMT.

But no fear foodies:  with libations aplenty and fresh foods, B&W talks the talk and walks the wok.

With an extensive bar and unique cocktails, the high-functioning alcoholic in you can rest assured. The beer menu, while composed solely of Colorado beers, is disappointing and limited, but the wine list more than makes up the difference – try the 2010 Quinta de Aleque for a sweet, light and smooth sauvignon blanc, and stick with the 2009 Donati claret for a rich, fruity and ultra-smooth red.

If you actually wanted food with your booze, the menu may appear limited, especially for vegetarians and vegans, but it does not disappoint. Though simple, options from sprouts ‘n spuds to risotto showcase the flavor of each ingredient, leading to the complex-yet-straightforward palette that only gourmet can provide.

While B&W provides inarguable quality, it’s not without a price. At $30 a head for three courses, this joint is special-occasions-only for starving artists. Not to mention the barrier to entry – Friday nights fill up fast for 6-8 p.m. reservations, and its specials for Valentine’s Day and Denver Restaurant Week are already booked.

With five bean status for Colorado class, this hidden gem boasts the exclusivity of true hipsterdom – being able to say you “discovered it first.” But with a hefty price tag, dividends from your alternative press might not fund admittance – bringing B&W down to a three bean eatery.

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